Its name, according to Abu Dhabi’s tourism authority, translates as “empty mountain”. From the palm groves of Al Ain, the description seems fair. Jebel Hafeet appears as a long, bare ridge of folded rock, rising to 1,249 metres on the border with Oman. It is the highest peak in the emirate of Abu Dhabi and the second highest in the UAE. Look more closely at its lower slopes, however, and the emptiness gives way to more than 500 stone tombs, some of the oldest monuments in the country.

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